There is a moment on the trek to Kedarnath — somewhere around the 12th kilometre, when the valley opens and you see it for the first time — when the legs that have been carrying you for four hours suddenly stop obeying instructions.
Not from exhaustion. From something else entirely.
The temple appears against the backdrop of the Kedarnath and Kedar Dome peaks — ancient, black with centuries of smoke and devotion, completely unmoved by the fact that you have just walked 12 kilometres at altitude to reach it. The Mandakini River makes its sound somewhere below. The cold is serious and the air is thin and the mountains are so close they seem to be leaning over the valley to see what is happening at their feet.
And then you understand, in your body rather than your mind, why people have been making this journey for over a thousand years. It is not simply faith, though faith is certainly here. It is the particular combination of physical effort and extreme landscape and sacred architecture that produces, when they coincide, something that cannot be manufactured or approximated — a quality of arrival that feels earned in every cell.
Kedarnath — at 3,584 metres in Uttarakhand's Rudraprayag district, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva and one of the four Char Dham pilgrimage sites — is the most physically demanding and spiritually charged of the Char Dham destinations. It is also the most beautiful. And for those who make the trek rather than taking the helicopter, it is genuinely transformative in ways that are difficult to explain and impossible to forget.
This complete guide covers everything you need to plan and undertake the Kedarnath Yatra in 2026 — the spiritual significance, the practical planning, the trek in detail, the helicopter option, accommodation, costs, and the personal experience that no official guide will give you.
The Spiritual Significance of Kedarnath — Why This Temple Matters
Kedarnath sits at the head of the Mandakini valley at 3,584 metres, surrounded by the glaciated peaks of the Kedarnath, Kedar Dome, and Kiriti ranges. It is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas — the most sacred Shiva shrines in India, each believed to contain a self-manifested column of divine light — and one of the Char Dham — the four pilgrimage sites (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath) that together constitute the most important pilgrimage circuit in the Hindu tradition.
The mythology of Kedarnath is rooted in the Mahabharata. After the devastating Kurukshetra war, the Pandavas sought forgiveness for the sin of killing their own kinsmen — including the venerated Bhishma Pitamah and their teacher Dronacharya. They searched for Lord Shiva to grant them absolution, but Shiva, unwilling to forgive the fratricide easily, fled from them and took refuge in the Kedarnath valley in the form of a bull (Nandi).
The Pandavas, recognising the bull as Shiva, pursued him. When Shiva/the bull tried to disappear into the earth, Bhima seized the bull's tail and back. The bull sank into the ground — but the hump remained above the surface. This hump, it is believed, became the distinctive saddle-shaped Shivalingam that is worshipped in the Kedarnath Temple today. The remaining parts of the bull appeared at four other locations — the four Panch Kedar temples of the Garhwal Himalaya — making Kedarnath the principal of the five.
The temple was restored and organised by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century CE. The great philosopher-saint, who reorganised Hindu religious institutions across India, established the puja system at Kedarnath and is believed to have attained samadhi (the state of final liberation) here — his Samadhi Shrine stands behind the main temple.
The stone temple that stands today — built of enormous interlocking stone blocks without mortar, in a style that has no parallel in temple architecture elsewhere — is of uncertain age but certainly pre-dates Shankaracharya's restoration. The stones used are local grey stone of extraordinary quality, and the method of construction — which allowed the temple to survive the catastrophic 2013 floods and debris flow that destroyed everything around it — has been a subject of considerable study by structural engineers.
The 2013 Floods and the Miracle of the Temple's Survival
No account of Kedarnath is complete without the 2013 disaster — and no understanding of the temple's significance to its devotees is complete without knowing that story.
On June 16-17, 2013, after unprecedented rainfall, the Chorabari Glacier Lake burst and a catastrophic flood and debris flow descended the Mandakini valley. The pilgrimage infrastructure of Kedarnath — the hotels, the dhabas, the tent camps, the footbridges — was swept away almost entirely. Thousands of pilgrims and local people were killed. The town of Kedarnath was buried under several feet of mud and debris.
The temple survived almost completely unscathed.
A massive boulder — still visible behind the temple — came to rest directly behind the structure, effectively acting as a deflector for the debris flow. Whether this was geological chance or divine protection is a matter of each individual's belief. What is not disputed is the physical fact: the 1,000-year-old stone temple stood while everything around it was destroyed.
For believers, this is the most powerful evidence of Shiva's protection of his own abode. For structural engineers, it is a remarkable demonstration of the interlocking dry-stone construction technique's ability to withstand extreme lateral forces.
Either way, when you stand before the temple and see the boulder behind it, you feel the weight of what happened here.
Planning Your Kedarnath Yatra 2026
When the Temple is Open
The Kedarnath Temple follows a seasonal opening and closing schedule based on the Hindu calendar, typically:
Opening: Late April or early May (on the auspicious date of Akshaya Tritiya or shortly after), announced by the Badrinath-Kedarnath Temple Committee early each year.
Closing: Around Diwali (October-November), when the deity is ceremonially moved to Ukhimath in the Rudraprayag valley for the winter months.
The temple remains open approximately May to November — check the official dates for 2026 on the Badrinath-Kedarnath Temple Committee website or the Uttarakhand Char Dham Devasthanam Management Board portal (registrationandtouristcare.uk.gov.in) closer to your travel date, as the exact dates change each year.
Registration — Mandatory for All Pilgrims
Registration is compulsory for the Kedarnath Yatra. Without a valid registration document, you will not be permitted to proceed beyond the check posts.
Online registration: Through the Uttarakhand government's official portal (registrationandtouristcare.uk.gov.in). Registration typically opens in March each year.
Offline registration: At centres in Haridwar, Rishikesh, Sonprayag, and other gateway points.
Carry your registration document and a valid government-issued photo ID throughout the journey. Authorities check documents at multiple points.
Best Time to Visit
May to June — ideal conditions. Pleasant daytime temperatures (8–15°C), clear views of the surrounding peaks, and the post-winter freshness of the valley. The most popular window, so accommodation and helicopter slots book quickly.
September to October — equally good and often preferred by experienced pilgrims. Post-monsoon clarity produces the finest mountain views of the year. The crowds thin after mid-September. October is cold but stunningly beautiful.
Avoid July and August — the monsoon season brings heavy rainfall, landslide risk on the approach roads, and significantly reduced visibility. The pilgrimage continues but conditions are genuinely challenging.
Daily Pilgrim Limits
Approximately 15,000 pilgrims are permitted per day for darshan. During peak season (May-June), this limit is reached quickly — arriving without a pre-registered slot on a busy day can mean a very long wait or being turned back from the temple.
Getting to Kedarnath — Routes, Distances and Practical Details
Gateway Cities
The Kedarnath Yatra begins at either Haridwar or Rishikesh — the two cities from which all Char Dham journeys typically depart.
From Delhi: Haridwar is 250 km (5 hours by road or overnight train). Rishikesh is 270 km (5-6 hours).
By Train: Haridwar Junction and Rishikesh Railway Station (the latter has limited connectivity — most trains terminate at Haridwar) are the primary railheads. Multiple trains from Delhi daily.
By Air: Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun (35 km from Rishikesh, 55 km from Haridwar) has daily flights from Delhi (1 hour). Taxis from the airport to Rishikesh take approximately 45 minutes.
Rishikesh/Haridwar to Gaurikund
Gaurikund — at 1,982 metres in the Mandakini valley — is the starting point of the trek to Kedarnath, 216 km from Rishikesh.
The road journey passes through some of the finest river gorge scenery in Uttarakhand: Devprayag (where the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers merge to become the Ganga), Srinagar (a small city in a valley of the Alaknanda), Rudraprayag (confluence of the Mandakini and Alaknanda), and Guptkashi (the last significant town before Sonprayag, with the important Vishwanath Temple).
By bus: Uttarakhand Roadways buses from Rishikesh to Sonprayag take approximately 8-9 hours and cost ₹400-600. From Sonprayag, a shuttle to Gaurikund costs ₹30-40.
By taxi: From Rishikesh to Sonprayag — approximately ₹2,500-3,500 for a private vehicle. Shared taxis are also available at lower per-person costs.
Private vehicle: The road is motorable to Sonprayag (private vehicles are not permitted beyond Sonprayag — you must take the government shuttle to Gaurikund).
Recommended: Break the journey with an overnight halt at Guptkashi (90 km from Gaurikund) — both for the road journey's length and for altitude acclimatisation. Guptkashi has good accommodation at multiple price points.
The Trek — Gaurikund to Kedarnath (16-18 km)
The trek from Gaurikund to Kedarnath is the heart of the yatra — and the part that most pilgrims who have made it describe as the most significant experience of the entire journey.
The Trail
The trek covers 16-18 km (the exact distance varies by the route section measured) and climbs approximately 1,600 metres in altitude — from Gaurikund at 1,982 metres to Kedarnath at 3,584 metres.
The trail is paved throughout with stone steps and flat sections, with railings on the more exposed sections. Rest stops (with dhabas, basic facilities, and first aid) are located at approximately:
Jungle Chatti (2 km from Gaurikund) — first significant rest point with chai and snacks.
Bheem Bali (6 km) — mid-point rest area, good dhaba, ponies available for hire here as well.
Lincholi (9 km) — substantial settlement with dhabas and accommodation; a popular overnight stop for those doing the trek in two stages.
Kedarnath Base (16 km) — the final approach to the temple complex.
Time Required
Most pilgrims in reasonable physical condition complete the trek in 6-9 hours at a comfortable pace with breaks. Fit trekkers can complete it in 4-5 hours. Allow more time if you have not done significant walking at altitude before.
Start no later than 5 AM from Gaurikund — the trail becomes crowded in late morning, and afternoon weather can be unpredictable. The trail is illuminated in the lower sections, allowing a pre-dawn start.
Pony, Doli, and Palki Services
For pilgrims unable to walk the full distance — due to age, health, or physical limitation — the following services are available from Gaurikund and Sonprayag:
Pony (horse): The most common option. Rates are officially fixed and displayed at the booking counters. Book the pony at the official counter in Sonprayag or Gaurikund — avoid unofficial operators who may charge significantly more.
Doli (hand-carried palanquin): Carried by four to six porters. More expensive than the pony. Rates are fixed and displayed at the booking counter.
Palki (wheeled chair): Available on the paved sections of the trail.
Book in advance during peak season — availability is limited and demand is high.
What to Carry
Warm layered clothing is essential — temperatures at Kedarnath drop significantly even in May-June. Pack a thermal base layer, a fleece mid-layer, and a windproof outer layer. Gloves and a warm hat are necessary.
Comfortable trekking shoes with good ankle support and non-slip soles are essential — not casual sneakers.
Rain gear — even outside the monsoon, afternoon showers are possible. A compact rain jacket is worth carrying.
Water, energy bars, and dry fruits — adequate hydration and caloric intake are important at altitude.
Sunscreen and sunglasses — UV intensity at altitude is significantly higher than at sea level.
Personal medications — including standard altitude sickness tablets (Diamox/Acetazolamide — consult a doctor before taking), pain relief, and any regular prescriptions.
The Helicopter Option — Gaurikund-Kedarnath by Air
For pilgrims who cannot undertake the trek due to age or health — and for those who want to save the trek for one direction — helicopter services offer a dramatically shorter journey.
Services and Operators
IRCTC and several private operators run helicopter services from multiple helipads:
Sirsi (10 km from Sonprayag) — one of the most frequently used helipads.
Phata (30 km from Sonprayag) — well-organised helipad with comfortable waiting facilities.
Guptkashi (50 km from Sonprayag) — the furthest from the trek start, offering more flexibility.
The helicopter flight from any of these points to Kedarnath takes approximately 8-10 minutes — covering the same terrain that takes 6-9 hours on foot.
Costs (approximate, verify for 2026)
Round-trip helicopter fares (per person, subject to change):
Sirsi: Approximately ₹6,000-7,000
Phata: Approximately ₹6,000-7,000
Guptkashi: Approximately ₹8,500-9,500
Fares are set by government regulation and displayed officially. Be wary of agents charging significantly more.
Booking
Book through the official Heliyatra portal (heliyatra.irctc.co.in) for IRCTC services — this is the most reliable and most transparent booking option. Slots fill extremely quickly in peak season — book as early as the portal opens for 2026, ideally months in advance.
Helicopter services are weather-dependent — flights are cancelled in poor visibility, cloud, or rain. If your helicopter is cancelled, you may need to trek or wait. Build flexibility into your schedule.
At Kedarnath — What to Do and See
The Temple Darshan
The main purpose of the Kedarnath visit is darshan — the act of seeing and being seen by the deity, which in the Hindu tradition is itself the primary act of worship.
The Kedarnath Shivalingam — the saddle-shaped natural rock formation that is the primary object of worship — is in the inner sanctum (garbhagriha) of the temple. Darshan of the lingam, with the priest performing abhishekam (ritual bathing) and applying bhasma (sacred ash) and bilva leaves, is the central experience of the visit.
General darshan is free and available throughout temple hours. VIP darshan (booked in advance online, with a fee) allows entry through a faster queue at specified times.
The evening aarti — performed at approximately 7:00 PM (times vary, confirm locally) — is the most atmospheric time to be at the temple. The lamps are lit, the bells ring, the priests perform the ritual, and the chanting rises against the mountain walls in a way that produces a quality of sound unlike any other.
Adi Shankaracharya Samadhi
Immediately behind the main temple — between the temple's rear wall and the famous deflecting boulder from 2013 — is the Samadhi of Adi Shankaracharya. The great philosopher-saint is believed to have attained liberation here in the 8th century CE, at the age of 32. The samadhi was damaged in the 2013 floods and has been rebuilt.
Standing here — between the ancient temple, the 2013 survivor boulder, and the samadhi of one of the most influential thinkers in Indian religious history — is one of those moments of concentrated historical and spiritual significance that Kedarnath provides unlike anywhere else.
Bhairavnath Temple
A short walk above the main Kedarnath settlement leads to the Bhairavnath Temple — dedicated to the fierce form of Shiva who is considered the guardian and protector of Kedarnath. The temple offers a fine view of the main Kedarnath Temple against the peaks, and the walk through the rocky terrain above the settlement gives a sense of the valley's scale.
Vasuki Tal Trek
For those who want additional trekking from Kedarnath — and who have the physical fitness and the time — the Vasuki Tal Lake (at 4,328 metres) is a spectacular high-altitude lake accessible by a 6-8 km trek from Kedarnath. The views of the Chaukhamba peaks (the massif at the head of the Gangotri glacier) from the lake are among the finest in the entire Garhwal Himalaya.
This is a serious trek at altitude — only for those who are properly acclimatised and fit. Weather conditions must be checked before departure.
Accommodation at and Around Kedarnath
At Kedarnath
Accommodation in the Kedarnath valley itself is basic by necessity — the altitude, the remoteness, and the restrictions on development mean that comfort levels are limited.
GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) camps — the government-run accommodation, offering dormitories and tents. The most reliable booking option; reserve through the GMVN website.
Private guesthouses and dorms — available in Kedarnath bazaar, basic but adequate. Quality varies significantly.
Tent camps — during peak season, numerous operators set up tent accommodations. Book through established operators only.
En Route
Lincholi (9 km from Gaurikund, 7 km from Kedarnath) — a popular overnight halt for those doing the trek in two stages. Several dhabas and basic guesthouses.
Gaurikund — the trek's starting point has accommodation ranging from basic dorms to reasonable guesthouses. Staying at Gaurikund the night before allows an early start.
Base Towns
Guptkashi — the most comfortable and best-stocked town in the area, with accommodation ranging from budget hotels to mid-range properties. Excellent base for those taking the helicopter.
Sonprayag — smaller than Guptkashi, with basic accommodation and the necessary facilities for pilgrims.
Rudraprayag — further from Kedarnath but with good accommodation and the advantage of the confluence of the Mandakini and Alaknanda rivers.
Food on the Kedarnath Route
The food of the Kedarnath yatra route is simple, vegetarian, and entirely appropriate to the physical demands of the journey.
Dhabas line the trek route at Jungle Chatti, Bheem Bali, and Lincholi, serving: dal-chawal (lentil soup with rice), roti with sabzi (flatbread with vegetable curry), aloo paratha (potato-stuffed flatbread), and chai (hot, sweet tea — available at frequent intervals along the trail and deeply welcome at altitude).
Khichdi — the simple rice-and-lentil porridge cooked together — is the most nourishing and most altitude-appropriate food on the route: easy to digest, warming, and available from almost every dhaba.
Rajma-chawal (kidney beans with rice) — particularly good in Rudraprayag and Guptkashi, where the local rajma is of excellent quality.
Important: Do not eat heavy or oily food before or during the trek. At altitude, the digestive system is compromised and heavy meals can cause significant discomfort. Light, carbohydrate-rich food is ideal.
Carry energy bars, dry fruits, and nuts for the trek itself — available from shops in Rishikesh, Haridwar, or Guptkashi before you start. Having your own snacks means you are never without sustenance between dhaba stops.
Costs — Budget Planning for the Kedarnath Yatra
Costs vary significantly depending on your mode of transport, accommodation choice, and the number of days you allow. Here is a realistic cost framework:
Budget Yatra (trek both ways, basic accommodation):
- Transport from Rishikesh to Sonprayag: ₹500-600 by bus
- Shuttle Sonprayag to Gaurikund: ₹40
- Trek: Free (trail is open to all)
- Accommodation in Kedarnath (dorm): ₹300-600/night
- Food on the route: ₹150-300/day
- Total per person for 5-6 days from Rishikesh: ₹3,000-6,000
Mid-Range Yatra (private transport, moderate accommodation):
- Private taxi Rishikesh to Sonprayag: ₹2,500-3,500
- Accommodation in Guptkashi (mid-range hotel): ₹1,500-2,500/night
- Accommodation in Kedarnath (private guesthouse): ₹800-1,500/night
- Total per person for 5-6 days: ₹8,000-15,000
Helicopter Yatra (helicopter one or both ways):
- Helicopter round-trip (Phata/Sirsi): ₹6,000-7,000
- Mid-range accommodation throughout: ₹1,500-2,500/night
- Total per person for 4-5 days: ₹15,000-25,000
Package Tours: Several operators in Rishikesh and Haridwar offer all-inclusive Kedarnath packages (transport, accommodation, meals, guide) starting from ₹9,500 for a 4-day budget package to ₹36,000 for luxury helicopter-inclusive options.
Health and Safety — Critical Information
Altitude Sickness
Kedarnath at 3,584 metres is at an altitude where Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a real and serious risk. The trek climbs 1,600 metres in a single day — a rate that does not allow adequate acclimatisation.
Symptoms of AMS: Headache (most common), nausea, loss of appetite, fatigue, dizziness, and difficulty sleeping.
Prevention:
- Spend at least one night at Rishikesh/Haridwar before beginning the ascent
- Consider an overnight halt at Guptkashi (2,000 metres) before proceeding to Gaurikund
- Ascend slowly — if you feel unwell, stop and rest
- Stay hydrated (drink 3-4 litres of water daily)
- Avoid alcohol and sedative medications
- Consult a doctor about Diamox (Acetazolamide) before the trip — a prescription medication that helps prevent altitude sickness
Important: If symptoms are severe (confusion, loss of coordination, inability to walk, severe headache not relieved by rest), descend immediately. Do not push through severe AMS — it can become life-threatening.
Medical Facilities
Emergency medical officers are stationed along the trek route. The Kedarnath Medical Post at the top provides basic emergency care. For serious emergencies, helicopter evacuation to Dehradun or further is available — but prevention and early response are always better.
Do not undertake the trek if you have: Serious cardiovascular disease, severe respiratory conditions, or uncontrolled hypertension. Consult a doctor before travelling if you have any chronic health conditions.
Weather
Conditions at Kedarnath change rapidly. Even in May and September, afternoon thunderstorms are possible. Always carry rain gear. Check the weather forecast before beginning the trek each morning.
My Personal Experience of Kedarnath
I made the Kedarnath trek in October — the last month of the season, when the crowds had thinned and the peaks had fresh snow from the pre-winter storms.
The first thing that surprised me was the silence. I had expected the trek to be crowded and noisy — and in the lower sections it was. But somewhere around the 10th kilometre, the trail thinned, the chatter of other pilgrims fell away, and what remained was the sound of the Mandakini River below, the wind, and the sound of my own breathing.
That sound — your own breathing at altitude, more laboured than usual, conscious in a way that it never is at sea level — is one of the most clarifying things I have experienced in the Himalayas. You become aware, very specifically, of the physical effort required to exist at 3,000 metres. And that awareness, sustained for hours, produces something like the attention I described at the beginning of this article.
When the temple appeared — the saddle-shaped black structure against the white peaks, impossibly real after hours of walking toward it — I stopped walking for several minutes. The person behind me, an elderly man from Tamil Nadu who had been climbing steadily for seven hours, stopped beside me. He was breathing hard. He looked at the temple. He closed his eyes and folded his hands.
Neither of us spoke. There was nothing to say.
I have thought about that moment often since. The old man's seven-hour climb, his closed eyes, his folded hands. The particular quality of something that has been earned — physically, genuinely, step by step — that no helicopter can give you and no package tour can replicate.
Kedarnath is many things to many people. For that old man from Tamil Nadu, it was clearly everything.
For me, it was one of the most powerful places I have ever been. And the walk was the point.
Frequently Asked Questions About Kedarnath Yatra
Q: Is the Kedarnath trek safe for elderly pilgrims and those with limited fitness? The trek is manageable for most healthy adults of any age with adequate preparation. The trail is paved and well-maintained with railings on exposed sections. Pony, doli, and palki services are available throughout for those who cannot walk. The main risks are altitude sickness (manageable with proper acclimatisation) and cold weather (manageable with adequate clothing). Pilgrims with serious cardiovascular conditions or severe respiratory disease should consult a doctor before undertaking the trek.
Q: Is the helicopter the better option than trekking? They are different experiences that serve different purposes. The helicopter (8-10 minutes) is essential for pilgrims who physically cannot make the trek — elderly devotees, those with mobility limitations, those with limited time. The trek (6-9 hours) provides an experience that is qualitatively different — the physical effort, the gradual approach, the encounter with other pilgrims on the path — that many people describe as the most meaningful part of the entire yatra. If you are able to trek, the trek is worth doing at least one way.
Q: How many days should I plan for the Kedarnath Yatra? A minimum of 5 days from Rishikesh allows for the journey adequately: Day 1 (Rishikesh to Guptkashi overnight), Day 2 (Guptkashi to Gaurikund, trek to Lincholi or Kedarnath), Day 3 (if not at Kedarnath — reach temple, darshan, overnight), Day 4 (morning aarti, descend to Gaurikund), Day 5 (return to Rishikesh). Seven days is more comfortable and allows for acclimatisation and flexibility.
Q: What is the best place to stay near Kedarnath for comfort? Guptkashi offers the most comfortable accommodation near the trek route — good hotels, restaurants, and the advantage of altitude acclimatisation (2,000 metres) without being too far from Gaurikund (50 km). For those taking the helicopter, Guptkashi is adjacent to helicopter helipads and is the most practical base.
Q: Can I combine Kedarnath with other Char Dham sites in one trip? Yes — the full Char Dham Yatra (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath) is traditionally done as a circuit and takes 12-15 days minimum. Kedarnath and Badrinath can be combined in 7-8 days as a shorter circuit. Many pilgrims do just Kedarnath in 5-6 days as a stand-alone pilgrimage. Travel agencies in Rishikesh and Haridwar offer well-organised packages for all combinations.
Conclusion — The Journey That Has No End
The Kedarnath Yatra is not a tourist attraction. It never has been and never will be, regardless of how much infrastructure is built around it.
It is a pilgrimage — which means it is a journey undertaken with a specific intention: to be in a specific sacred place, to offer prayer, to seek grace, to confront the Himalayas and oneself simultaneously. The physical demands of the trek are not incidental to this intention. They are part of it. The 16 kilometres of climbing, the thin air, the cold, the aching legs — all of it is the preparation that makes the arrival meaningful.
The boulder that stopped the 2013 flood behind the temple is still there. The Shivalingam is still there, as it has been for over a thousand years, through floods and wars and the rise and fall of empires. The Mandakini River still runs below the temple complex, carrying the glacial melt of the Chorabari glacier that feeds it.
And pilgrims still come — in hundreds of thousands each season — to fold their hands before the ancient black stone, to hear the evening bells echo against the peaks, and to carry back down the mountain something that cannot be bought or packaged or replicated: the memory of having been there.
Om Namah Shivaya. Har Har Mahadev.
Enjoyed this article? You might also like:
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Have you made the Kedarnath Yatra? What was the moment — on the trek, at the temple, in the aarti — that you will never forget? Share in the comments. Kedarnath stories belong to everyone who has been changed by the journey.

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